Telfair Gardens

More like a small municipal park than actual gardens, the Telfair Gardens are hardly an outstanding sight. But they are conveniently opposite the Bus Park in Soullic, on the road to the Robert Edward Hart Museum and Gris Gris. The gardens were named after Sir Charles Telfair, secretary to the English governor, sugar baron and superintendent of Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolan Botanical Gardens. You get a good view across the bay from Telfair to the graveyard at Cemetery Point, where Hart is buried. There is a concrete slab informing you that swimming is hazardous because of dangerous currents off the rocks at the foot of the park.

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  • Continue along the road past Le Nef and the Robert Edward Hart Museum and you come to grassy cliff top, which affords a view of the black rocky coastline where the reef is broken, and a path down to Gris Gris Beach. It is a popular spot for dangers of swimming here. Gris Gris is said to mean sorcery or black magic.

  • The rock that cries is a little further east along coast from Gris Gris and resembles a crying man. In fact it looks like the profile of Robert Edward Hart. Two pictures in the Robert Edward hart museum show the comparison in case you cant’t find the actual or black magic.

  • The countryside that surrounds Le Telfair Golf & Spa Resort is both impressive and imposing. On the one side, the foothills of the Plaine Champagne mountain descend in a sheer drop of over 500 metres, while on the other side, the sheer vastness of the Indian Ocean stretches beyond the horizon.

  • Away from the coast and almost directly south of Grand Baie is the Cultural Centre and Nature Park: Domaine Les Pailles - Ouest - Port Louis / Moka, also known as the Royal Botanical Gardens. Pamplemousses stretches for four hectares and features plants from all over the world - wild bananas, camphor trees, clover and nutmeg trees from Manila and huge water lilies, known locally as 'flan tins' as well as a number of palms. There is also an art gallery and a cemetery.

  • Named after the Vicomte de Souillac, the island's French governor from 1779 to 1787, Souillac Like Mahebourg, is of little interest in itself. It is not particularly welcoming or helpful to visitors, probably because it is not used to getting them. Souillac seems a place that Mauritius likes to visit. Gris Gris and Robert Edward Hart’s house are popular school outings.

  • Robert Edward hart (1891-1954) was a renowned Mauritius poet, appreciated by the French and English alike. He wrote in French and translations of his poetry are hard to find. He lived out the last 13years of his life at Le Nef, a coral beach cottage about 500m east along the shore from the Souillac Bus Park. It was taken over by public in 1967 the bedroom and kitchens have been maintained. On display are copies and originals of Hart’s letters, plays, speeches and poetry, as well as his spectacles, pith helmet and fiddle.

  • The gates are from Crystal Palace in London and are open each day from 8.30 am 5.30pm, entry is free. The best time to see the gardens is between December and April. It is a big place so you will need time and a decent map. You can hire a guide in the gardens but make sure you negotiate a fee and the duration of your tour before you start. There are few flowers in the gardens; it is not a horticultural display. Having said that one of the main features is the giant Victoria regia water lily native to the Amazon region.